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The mountainous village of Ban Pang Kued in Inthakhin Subdistrict, Maetaeng District, Chiang Mai Province is a small Lahu, also known as Musoe, village. The Lahu people who live here lead a simple life with long-established traditions and cultures. The village lies around 59 km. from Chiang Mai town, or a 2-hour-long journey. The way to this village involves a twisting-and-winding concrete road that climbs up the mountain slope providing a good challenge for any new visitors.

 

Preferring an unchaotic lifestyle, most Lahu people live in high mountains. They have a simple life. They are an indigenous group that can get along with other people very well. The villagers here have moderate economic status. They live like family and help each other. They grow their own vegetables and need not rely too much on money. Clothes are sewn or woven by themselves, too. The good thing is that there are electricity and running water from the mountain. There are also an elementary and secondary school for the children. Professionally, Lahu people here grow crops, rice, and hunt animals. They take pride in being a hunter to make a living.

 

However, this simple way of life is limited by legal status. Some people or families in this village do not possess a national identification card, which means they live in fear. Only some households have been surveyed and granted Thai ID cards, while others, which constitute quite a large group, do not. Likewise, Bang Pang Kuet has both people who have and do not have any documents. The stateless people face difficulties in terms of traveling, employment, healthcare, and other services.

 

On 6 January 2021, the author had the chance to visit Ban Pang Kuet to see the way of life of the people here. I have witnessed the Lahu new year tradition called ‘Kin Wor’ (Kho Chao We), which is held annually in the beginning of the year during January – March. Kin Wor tradition lasts around 7 – 10 days, during which family members and relatives return home to be together. The New Year or the Kin Wor festival is very important for the Lahu people because it is related to the indigenous way of life. There are games that are exclusively played on this occasion. Lahu men and women put on full tribal costumes and join in the activities at the village’s common plaza, including “Ja Kue” dance, “Saba” game, and top spinning.

        

In the game of Saba, players are divided into two teams. The teams, whose member gets one Saba ball (seed from Saba plant) each, try to flick or throw the ball to hit the line of 10 Saba balls on the other side. The team that has got the most Saba balls wins (the player may use any gesture or tactic to throw).

        

In the game of top, tops are made from hardwood and have a pointed metal tip to spin. It is played by tying one end of a cord to a wood stick and the other end to the top. Then, the person throws the top to the target, while quickly pulling back the cord to make it spin. If his top hits his opponent’s, he wins. This game is most popular among boys. In the morning, young people pour water on the hands of elders and ask for blessings, a custom similar to Songkran in Thai culture. Kin Wor festival is not only a joyful and valuable time for the Lahu, it is also a way to preserve their culture. 

 

By seeing this tradition, the younger generation thus recognizes its significance and wants to keep it.

 

Udom has a warm family with 7 members, including father, mother, the eldest son, the daughter-in-law, the youngest son, and two daughters. They live in Ban Pang Kuet village. They live from hand to mouth. They work for wages in the farms or crops collecting tea leaves and coffee beans. Their income depends on how much they can harvest. The bigger the harvest, the more money. The smaller, the less. After collecting, they have to carry two to three sacks of coffee beans back down on their motorcycle to further undergo the sorting and depulping process. The floating beans are removed. Then, the beans are dried and sold. 

 

It takes many steps before we get the coffee beans that are ready for our consumption. The family’s daily routine represents all households here, as this village mainly grows coffee and tea. Coffee gives income to the Lahu and is regarded as a valuable treasure.

 

Udom’s father and mother were born in Thailand. However, due to the lack of census, they do not hold a Thai national ID card. It is difficult to travel to another province because it requires a permit. They do not have access to many healthcare benefits either. Later, the Lahu Development Foundation and the Legal Status Network Foundation lent hand to solve this issue. Nevertheless, it still took some time before they obtained legal status. The legal status has gradually improved the lives of Udom’s family. Although it is not a real ID card and does not provide the same benefits as such, it has made the family feel safe to be visible in the society and is the most precious thing for them.

 

Udom’s father said that “having citizenship is like having a new life”.

 

These words, though simple, are full of emotions.

 

We, human, sometimes do not need many things. Things that are seen as unimportant by others may just be good enough.